Carunchio May 2007
"Touched down in Rome’s Ciampino airport around 12 noon after the short flight from UK. Despite being in the eternal
city, Ciampino has the feel of a provincial holiday airport. By that I mean it is small, easy to get out of and the hire
car was just a short walk away.
Once on the ring road we were soon making good time across country. I had seen the pictures of Carunchio
with it’s church atop a strangely symmetrical hill and sure enough after a couple of hours there it was, just like
in the photo.
Now how to find the appartment.
The hand drawn map seemed to lead us down the kind of alleyway that was only suitable for bicycles and the
occasional donkey. But then, there was the odd car parked in its makeshift lay-by. So, even if we were lost,
we were, hopefully, at least legal.
Better ask one of the locals. Maybe the middle aged dark haired lady in the large black frock, (quite a lot of these in
Carunchio) “Scusi…La casa di Lia ..la donna inglese?” “Ah si si, Lia, ….e qui “ Turns out this is Giovanna
the next door neighbour. We are right outside the apartment.
Right then what about dinner?
The restaurant at the bottom of the hill.
10 minutes walk down. 20 minutes climb back. Good fun finding the quickest way through the maze of narrow
paths that lead to the bottom of the hill. What’s Italian for “Sorry madam. No I’m not trying to break into your chicken coop”?
In general terms the oldest and most interesting buildings are the near the top (as is our appartment) and the newest
and most boring are at the bottom. This restaurant is right at the bottom so not a promising start. Inside is a bit 1960s
functional. But once the place fills up with locals on a bit of a night out you get a real Italian feel to the place.
Big family groups and lots of noise. Good food, well presented.
The restaurant at the top of the hill
As the crow flies must be less than 100 yards away. Still leave yourself plenty of time to get there. Just a complete
maze of footpaths. It is right at the top of the hill so as long as you keep going up you’ll get there.
The restaurant is an old mansion renovated in some style. The owners are a father and daughter team
who hope to establish a gourmet restaurant that also does residential cookery courses.
Unfortunately I cannot comment on the food as they were doing a private christening party when we wandered in
and they were closed on the couple of days we had left. Funny enough despite being so close we did not know it
was there. The only thing to indicate that there is a restaurant there was the menu next to the antique entrance doors.
Restaurant at the Parco Naturale
3 miles out of Carrunchio there is a country/activity park with it’s own bar and restaurant.
Good food and type of place where if it is not on the menu they will still try and do it for you. Very friendly staff.
The main thing about Parco Naturale is the activities like Quad Biking. This is serious stuff. Forget driving around
a couple of farmer’s fields. The park is set on a wooded hillside and you get to drive up and down through the
woods along paths that would test a mountain goat. Just the sort of thing that would get the health & safety mob
chewing on their clipboards back in the UK. Great fun!!
The Locals
While we were in Carrunchio the local football team won the Abruzzi regional cup. Although we missed the game we
happened to wander into the bar at the bottom of the hill that evening where the team were celebrating. They
insisted we join in the celebrations. Think they were flattered that their success now had an international aspect.
Funnily enough the same informal party could have taken place in any pub in middle England toasting the
success of their local team.
One day we bumped into an elderly guy who asked us if we were French. Never thought that English could be
confused for French. Anyway told him we were English at which his eyes lit up. He told us that it was the British
and Indians who kicked the Germans out of Carunchio in 1944. So our credit is still high over there at least with
the more elderly residents."
Simon Roguszka & Paul Rodgers - May 2007
Testamonials by guests staying at the apartment in 2007
" We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Lia's apartment in Carunchio.
If, like us, you wish to experience the typical rustic way of life in a
quiet Italian mountain village, this is definitely the place for you.
Highlights of our stay in mid October 2007 were the:
magnificent mountain views in all directions from the village streets;
crystal clear mountain air and early autumn warm sunshine;
friendly hospitality in the excellent bar on the old village square;
all the provisions we needed from the close by shop and bakery;
splendid long clean Adriatic beach at Vasto, just 45 minutes drive away;
several excellent dining opportunities ranging from the wholesome simple
local fare served by the hotel restaurant at the foot of the village, to the
splendid haute cuisine provided in the Palazzo at the village summit. Not
forgetting the fine food provided just a few kilometres away at Valle dei
Sogne and near Palmoli at the Boomerang restaurant."
Chris & Rosie Elmore - October 2007
